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Diamond

Item # P5668
|
Diamond is one of the two best
known forms (or allotropes) of carbon, whose hardness
and high dispersion of light make it useful for industrial
applications and jewelry (the other equally well known
allotrope is graphite). Diamonds are specifically
renowned as a mineral with superlative physical qualities
- they make excellent abrasives because they can only
be scratched by other diamonds, which also means they
hold a polish extremely well and retain luster. About
130 million carats (26,000 kg) are mined annually,
with a total value of nearly USD $9 billion.
The name "diamond" derives from the ancient
Greek adamas (ad?µa?; "invincible").
They have been treasured as gems since their use as
religious icons in India at least 2,500 years ago—and
usage in drill bits and engraving tools also dates
to early human history. Popularity of diamonds has
risen since the 19th century because of improved cutting
and polishing techniques, and they are commonly judged
by the "four Cs": carat, clarity, color,
and cut. Although nearly four times the mass of natural
diamonds are produced as synthetic diamond each year,
the vast majority of synthetic diamond production
remains small, imperfect diamonds suitable only for
industrial-grade use, with gem-quality synthetic diamonds
only recently becoming available.
Most natural diamonds originate from central and southern
Africa , although significant sources of the mineral
have been discovered in Canada, Russia, Brazil, and
Australia. They are generally mined from volcanic
pipes, which are deep in the Earth where the high
pressure and temperature enables the formation of
the crystals. The mining and distribution of natural
diamonds are subjects of frequent controversy—such
as with concerns over the sale of conflict diamonds
by African paramilitary groups.
|
Material
properties

Item # p5513 |
| Diamond
is a transparent crystal of pure carbon consisting of
tetrahedally bonded carbon atoms. Humans have been able
to adapt diamonds for many uses because of the material's
exceptional physical characteristics. Most notable among
these properties are the extreme hardness of diamond,
its high disprersion index, and high thermal conductivity.
These properties form the basis for most modern applications
of diamond. |
Mechanical
properties

Item # PMA5905 |
Crystal
structure
Diamonds typically crystallize in
the face-centered cubic crystal system and consist of
tetrahedrally bonded carbon atoms. The unit cell of
diamond has a two atom basis at (0,0,0) and (1/4,1/4,1/4),
which means half of the atoms are at lattice points
and the other half are offset by (1/4,1/4,1/4), where
1 is the length of a side of the unit cell.
The tetrahedral arrangement of atoms in a diamond crystal
is the source of many of diamond's properties. Graphite,
another allotrope of carbon, has a rhombohedral crystal
structure and as a result shows dramatically different
physical characteristics — contrary to diamond,
graphite is a very soft, dark gray, opaque mineral.
Other elements of the carbon group such as silicon have
forms analogous to diamond.
Lonsdaleite is a polymorph of diamond (and a distinct
mineral species) that crystallizes with hexagonal symmetry;
it is rarely found in nature, but is characteristic
of synthetic diamonds. A crypto crystalline variety
of diamond is called carbonado. A colorless, gray or
black diamond with a tiny radial structure is a spherulite.
|
Hardness

Item # MA 6847 |
Diamond
is the hardest known naturally occurring material, scoring
10 on the relative Mohs scale of mineral hardness and
having an absolute hardness value of between 167 and 231
gigapascals in various tests. Diamond's hardness has been
known since antiquity, and is the source of its name.
However, aggregated diamond nanorods, an allotrope of
carbon first synthesized in 2005, are now believed to
be even harder than diamond.
The hardest diamonds in the world are diamonds from the
New England area in New South Wales, Australia. These
diamonds are generally small, perfect to semi perfect
octahedra and are used to polish other diamonds. Their
hardness is considered to be a product of the crystal
growth form, which is single stage growth crystal. Most
other diamonds show more evidence of multiple growth stages,
which produce inclusions, flaws and defect planes in the
crystal lattice all of which affect their hardness (Taylor
et al. 1990).
Industrial use of diamonds has historically been associated
with their hardness; this property makes diamond the ideal
material for cutting and grinding tools. It is one of
the most known and most useful of more than 3,000 known
minerals. As the hardest known naturally occurring material,
diamond can be used to polish, cut, or wear away any material,
including other diamonds. Common industrial adaptations
of this ability include diamond-tipped drill bits and
saws, or use of diamond powder as an abrasive. Other specialized
applications also exist or are being developed, including
use as semiconductors: some blue diamonds are natural
semiconductors, in contrast to most other diamonds, which
are excellent electrical insulators . Industrial-grade
diamonds are either unsuitable for use as gems or synthetically
produced, which lowers their price and makes their use
economically feasible. Industrial applications, especially
as drill bits and engraving tools, also date to ancient
times.
The hardness of diamonds also contributes to its suitability
as a gemstone. Because it can only be scratched by other
diamonds, it maintains its polish extremely well, keeping
its luster over long periods of time. Unlike many other
gems, it is well-suited to daily wear because of its resistance
to scratching—perhaps contributing to its popularity
as the preferred gem in an engagement ring r wedding ring,
which are often worn every day. |
Toughness

Item # pEM5148 |
| Unlike
hardness, which only denotes resistance to scratching,
diamond's toughness is only fair to good. Toughness relates
to a material's ability to resist breakage from forceful
impact. As with any material, the macroscopic geometry
of a diamond contributes to its resistance to breakage.
Diamonds cut into certain particular shapes are therefore
more prone to breakage than others. |
Color

Item # p6265E |
Diamonds
occur in a variety of transparent hues — colorless,
white, steel,blue,yellow,orange,red,green,pink,brown—or
colored black.
Diamonds with a detectable hue to them are known as colored
diamonds. Colored diamonds contain impurities or structural
defects that cause the coloration, while pure or nearly
pure diamonds are transparent and colorless. Most diamond
impurities replace a carbon atom in the crystal lattice.
The most common impurity, nitrogen, causes a yellowish
or brownish tinge. |
Electromagnetic
properties
Optical
properties
Diamonds exhibit a high dispersion of visible light.
This strong ability to split white light into its component
colors is an important aspect of diamond's attraction
as a gemstone, giving it impressive prismatic action
that results in so-called fire in a well-cut stone.
The luster of a diamond, a characterization of how light
interacts with the surface of a crystal, is brilliant
and is described as adamantine, which simply means diamond-like.
This is owed to their high refractive index of 2.417
(at 589.3 nm), which causes total internal reflection
to occur. Some diamonds exhibit fluorescence of various
colors (predominately blue) under long wave ultraviolet
light. Nearly all diamonds fluoresce bluish-white, yellow
or green under X-rays and this property is used extensively
in mining to separate the fluorescing diamond from the
non-fluorescing rock. Most diamonds show no fluorescence
although colored diamonds show a wider range of fluorescence
than the blue fluorescence normally observed in clear
diamonds
|
Electrical
properties

Item # pma6848 |
Except
for most blue diamonds, which are semiconductors, diamonds
are good electrical insulators. Blue diamonds owe their
semi conductive property to boron impurities, which
act as a doping agent and cause p-type semiconductor
behavior. Blue diamonds which are not boron-doped, such
as those recently recovered from the Argyle diamond
mine in Australia that owe their color to an overabundance
of hydrogen atoms, are not semiconductors.
Thermal
properties
Unlike most electrical insulators,
diamond is a good conductor of heat because of the strong
covalent bonding within the crystal. Most natural blue
diamonds contain boron atoms which replace carbon atoms
in the crystal matrix, and also have high thermal conductivity.
Specially purified synthetic diamond has the highest
thermal conductivity (2000–2500 W/(m•K),
five times more than copper) of any known solid at room
temperature. Because diamond has such high thermal conductance
it is already used in semiconductor manufacture to prevent
silicon and other semi conducting materials from overheating.
|
Natural
history

Item # 6868 |
Formation
Diamond is formed by prolonged exposure of carbon bearing
materials to high pressure and temperature. On Earth,
the formation of diamonds is possible because there are
regions deep within the Earth that are at a high enough
pressure and temperature that the formation of diamonds
is thermodynamically favorable (see the diamond phase
diagram and geotherms here). Under continental crust,
diamonds form starting at depths of about 150 kilometers
(90 miles), where pressure is roughly 5 gigapascals and
the temperature is around 1200 degrees Celsius (2200 degrees
Fahrenheit). Diamond formation under oceanic crust takes
place at greater depths because of higher temperatures,
which require higher pressure for diamond formation. Long
periods of exposure to these high pressures and temperatures
allow diamond crystals to grow larger.
Through studies of carbon isotope ratios (similar to the
methodology used in carbon dating) except using the stable
isotopes C-12 and C-13, it has been shown that the carbon
found in diamonds comes from both inorganic and organic
sources. Some diamonds, known as harzburgitic, are formed
from inorganic carbon originally found deep in the Earth's
mantle. In contrast, eclogitic diamonds contain organic
carbon from organic detritus that has been pushed down
from the surface of the Earth's crust through subduction
(see plate tectonics) before transforming into diamond.
These two different source carbons have measurably different
13C:12C ratios. Diamonds that have come to the Earth's
surface are generally very old, ranging from under 1 billion
to 3.3 billion years old.
Diamonds occur most often as euhedral or rounded octahedra
and twinned octahedra known as macles. As diamond's crystal
structure has a cubic arrangement of the atoms, they have
many facets that belong to a cube, octahedron, rhombicosidodecahedron,
tetrakis hexahedron or disdyakis dodecahedron. The crystals
can have rounded off and unexpressive edges and can be
elongated. Sometimes they are found grown together or
form double "twinned" crystals grown together
at the surfaces of the octahedron. This is all due to
the conditions in which they form. Diamonds (especially
those from secondary deposits) are commonly found coated
in nyf, an opaque gum-like skin.
Diamonds can also form in other natural high-pressure,
high-temperature events. Very small diamonds, known as
micro diamonds or nanodiamonds, have been found in impact
craters where meteors strike the Earth and create shock
zones of high pressure and temperature where diamond formation
can occur. Micro diamonds are now used as one indicator
of ancient meteorite impact sites. |
Surfacing

Item # 6815
|
Diamond-bearing
rock is forced close to the surface through deep-origin
volcanic eruptions. The magma for such a volcano must
originate at a depth where diamonds can be formed, 90
miles (150 km) deep or more (three times or more the depth
of source magma for most volcanoes); this is a relatively
rare occurrence. Below these typically small surface volcanic
craters are formations known as volcanic pipes, which
contain material that was pushed toward the surface of
the earth by volcanic action, but did not erupt before
the volcanic activity ceased. Diamond-bearing volcanic
pipes are most commonly found in the oldest regions of
continental crust, which relates to the fact that these
areas are the coolest portions of the earth's crust, and
therefore diamonds can form at the shallowest depths.
The magma in such volcanic pipes is usually one of two
characteristic types, which cool into igneous rock known
as either kimberlite or lamproite. The magma itself does
not contain diamond; instead, it acts as an elevator that
carries deep-formed rocks and material upward. These rocks
are characteristically rich in magnesium bearing olivine
, pyroxene, and amphibole minerals which are usually altered
to serpentine under near surface conditions. Certain indicator
minerals typically occur within diamondiferous kimberlites
and are used as mineralogical tracers in the search for
diamond deposits by prospectors. These minerals are rich
in chromium (Cr) or titanium (Ti), elements which impart
bright colors to the minerals. The most common indicator
minerals are chromian garnets (usually bright red Cr-purope,
and occasionally green unrandite-series garnets), eclogitic
garnets, orange Ti-pyrope, red high chromian spinels,
dark chromite, bright green Cr- diopside, glassy green
olivine, black picroilmenite, and magnetite. Kimberlite
deposits are known as blue ground for the deeper serpentinized
part of the deposits, or as yellow ground for the near
surface smectite clay and carbonate weathered and oxidized
portion.
Once diamonds have been forced to the surface by magma
in a volcanic pipe, they may erode out and be distributed
over a large area. A volcanic pipe containing diamonds
is known as a primary source of diamonds. Secondary sources
of diamonds include all areas where a significant number
of diamonds, eroded out of their kimberlite or lamproite
matrix, accumulate because of water or weather action.
These include alluvial deposits and deposits along existing
and ancient shorelines, where loose diamonds tend to accumulate
because of their approximate size and density. Diamonds
have also rarely been found in deposits left behind by
glaciers (notably in Wisconsin and Indiana); however,
in contrast to alluvial deposits, glacial deposits are
not known to be of significant concentration and are therefore
not viable commercial sources of diamond.
Diamonds can also be brought to the surface through certain
processes which may occur when two continental plates
collide forcefully, although this phenomenon is less understood
and currently assumed to be uncommon. |
Gemological
characteristics

Item # ma 6661 |
The use
of diamonds as gemstones of decorative value is the most
familiar use to most people today, and is also the earliest
use, with decorative use of diamonds stretching back into
antiquity. The dispersion of white light into a rainbow
of colors, known in the trade as fire, is the other primary
characteristic of gem diamonds, and has been highly prized
throughout history. Over time, especially since around
1900, experts in the field of gemology have developed
methods of characterizing diamonds and other gemstones
based on the characteristics most important to their value
as a gem. Four characteristics, known informally as the
four Cs, are now commonly used as the basic descriptors
of diamonds: these are carat, clarity,
color, and cut.
Most gem diamonds are traded on the wholesale market based
on single values for each of the four Cs; for example
knowing that a diamond is rated as 1.5 carats, VS2 clarity,
F color, excellent cut, is enough to reasonably establish
an expected price range. More detailed information from
within each characteristic can then be used to determine
actual market value for individual stones. Consumers who
purchase individual diamonds are often advised to use
the four Cs to pick the diamond that is "right"
for them; to these is sometimes added the "fifth
C" of cost.
Other characteristics not described by the four Cs can
and do influence the value or appearance of a gem diamond.
These characteristics include physical characteristics
such as the presence of fluorescence, as well as data
on a diamond's history including its source and which
gemological institute performed evaluation services on
the diamond. Cleanliness also dramatically affects
a diamond's beauty.
There are four major gemological associations which "certify"
diamonds: that is, define the four Cs of a diamond. While
carat weight and cut angles are mathematically defined,
the clarity and color are judged by the trained human
eye and are therefore open to slight variance in interpretation. |
Carat

Item # 6749 |
| The carat
weight measures the mass of a diamond. One carat
is defined as exactly 200 milligrams (about 0.007 ounce).
The point unit—equal to one one-hundredth
of a carat (0.01 carat, or 2 mg)—is commonly used
for diamonds of less than one carat. All else being equal,
the value of a diamond increases exponentially in relation
to carat weight, since larger diamonds are both rarer
and more desirable for use as gemstones. |
Carat
size |
Cost
per carat (US$) |
Total
cost (US$) |
| 0.5 carat (50 points) |
3,000 |
1,500 |
| 1.0 carat |
6,500 |
6,500 |
| 1.5 carats |
8,500 |
12,750 |
| 2.0 carats |
13,000 |
26,000 |
| 3.0 carats |
17,000 |
51,000 |
| 5.0 carats |
23,000 |
115,000 |
|
The price
per carat does not increase smoothly with increasing size.
Instead, there are sharp jumps around milestone carat
weights, as demand is much higher for diamonds weighing
just more than a milestone than for those weighing just
less. As an example, a 0.95 carat diamond may have a significantly
lower price per carat than a comparable 1.05 carat diamond,
because of differences in demand.
A weekly price list published by Rapaport of New York,
of diamond prices per carat, for different diamond cuts,
clarity and weights, is currently considered the de-facto
retail price baseline. Jewelers often trade diamonds at
negotiated discounts off the Rapaport price (e.g., "R
-3%").
In the wholesale trade of gem diamonds, carat is often
used in denominating lots of diamonds for sale. For example,
a buyer may place an order for 100 carats of 0.5 carat,
D–F, VS2-SI1, excellent cut diamonds, indicating
he wishes to purchase 200 diamonds (100 carats total mass)
of those approximate characteristics. Because of this,
diamond prices (particularly among wholesalers and other
industry professionals) are often quoted per carat, rather
than per stone.
Total carat weight (t.c.w.) is a phrase used to describe
the total mass of diamonds or other gemstone in a piece
of jewelry, when more than one gemstone is used. Diamond
solitaire earrings, for example, are usually quoted in
t.c.w. when placed for sale, indicating the mass of the
diamonds in both earrings and not each individual diamond.
T.c.w. is also widely used for diamond necklaces, bracelets
and other similar jewelry pieces.
|
Clarity

Item # 6791 |
Clarity
is a measure of internal defects of a diamond called inclusions.
Inclusions may be crystals of a foreign material or another
diamond crystal, or structural imperfections such as tiny
cracks that can appear whitish or cloudy. The number,
size, color, relative location, orientation, and visibility
of inclusions can all affect the relative clarity of a
diamond. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and
others have developed systems to grade clarity, which
are generally based on those inclusions which are visible
to a trained professional when a diamond is viewed from
above, under 10x magnification.
Diamonds become increasingly rare when considering higher
clarity gradings. Only about 20 percent of all diamonds
mined have a clarity rating high enough for the diamond
to be considered appropriate for use as a gemstone; the
other 80 percent are relegated to industrial use. Of that
top 20 percent, a significant portion contains an inclusion
or inclusions that are visible to the naked eye upon close
inspection. Those that do not have a visible inclusion
are known as "eye-clean" and are preferred by
most buyers, although visible inclusions can sometimes
be hidden under the setting in a piece of jewelry.
Most inclusions present in gem-quality diamonds do not
affect the diamonds' performance or structural integrity.
However, large clouds can affect a diamond's ability to
transmit and scatter light. Large cracks close to or breaking
the surface may reduce a diamond's resistance to fracture.
Diamonds are graded by the major societies on a scale
ranging from Flawless to Imperfect. (see the main article
for more detail). |
Color

Item # 6654 |
A chemically
pure and structurally perfect diamond is perfectly transparent
with no hue, or color. However, in reality
almost no gem-sized natural diamonds are absolutely perfect.
The color of a diamond may be affected by chemical impurities
and/or structural defects in the crystal lattice. Depending
on the hue and intensity of a diamond's coloration, a
diamond's color can either detract from or enhance its
value. For example, most white diamonds are discounted
in price as more yellow hue is detectable, while intense
pink or blue diamonds (such as the Hope Diamond) can be
dramatically more valuable.
Most diamonds used as gemstones are basically transparent
with little tint, or white diamonds. The most
common impurity, nitrogen, replaces a small proportion
of carbon atoms in a diamond's structure and causes a
yellowish to brownish tint. This effect is present in
almost all white diamonds; in only the rarest diamonds
is the coloration due to this effect undetectable. The
GIA has developed a rating system for color in white diamonds,
from "D" to "Z" (with D being "colorless"
and Z having a bright yellow coloration), which has been
widely adopted in the industry and is universally recognized,
superseding several older systems once used in different
countries. The system uses a benchmark set of either natural
diamonds of known color grade, or precision-crafted cubic
zirconia; test lighting conditions are also standardized
and carefully controlled. Diamonds with higher color grades
are rarer, in higher demand, and therefore more expensive,
than lower color grades. Oddly enough, diamonds graded
Z are also rare, and the bright yellow color is also highly
valued. Diamonds graded D-F are considered "colorless",
G-J are considered "near-colorless", K-M are
"slightly colored". N-Y are usually appear light
yellow or brown.
In contrast to yellow or brown hues, diamonds of other
colors are much rarer and more valuable. While even a
pale pink or blue hue may increase the value of a diamond,
more intense coloration is usually considered more desirable
and commands the highest prices. A variety of impurities
and structural imperfections cause different colors in
diamonds, including yellow, pink, blue, red, green, brown,
and other hues. Diamonds with unusual or intense coloration
are sometimes labeled "fancy" by the diamond
industry. Intense yellow coloration is considered one
of the fancy colors, and is separate from the color grades
of white diamonds. Gemologists have developed rating systems
for fancy colored diamonds, but they are not in common
use because of the relative rarity of colored diamonds.
|
Cut

Item # 7137 |
Diamond
cutting is the art and science of creating a gem-quality
diamond out of mined rough. The cut of a diamond describes
the manner in which a diamond has been shaped and polished
from its beginning form as a rough stone to its final
gem proportions. The cut of a diamond describes the
quality of workmanship and the angles to which a diamond
is cut. Often diamond cut is confused with "shape."
There are mathematical guidelines for the angles and
length ratios at which the diamond is supposed to cut
at in order to reflect the maximum amount of light.
Round brilliant diamonds, the most common, are guided
by these specific guidelines, though fancy cut stones
are not able to be as accurately guided by mathematical
specifics.
The techniques for cutting diamonds have been developed
over hundreds of years, with perhaps the greatest achievements
made in 1919 by mathematician and gem enthusiast Marcel
Tolkowsky. He developed the round brilliant cut by calculating
the ideal shape to return and scatter light when a diamond
is viewed from above. The modern round brilliant has
57 facets (polished faces), counting 33 on the crown
(the top half), and 24 on the pavilion (the lower half).
The girdle is the thin unpolished middle. The function
of the crown is to diffuse light into various colors
and the pavilion's function to reflect light back through
the top of the diamond.
Tolkowsky defines the ideal dimensions to have:
• Table percentage (table
diameter divided by overall diameter) = 53%
• Depth percentage (Overall depth divided by
the overall diameter) = 59.3%
• Pavilion Angle (Angle between the girdle and
the pavilion) = 40.75°
• Crown Angle (Angle between the girdle and
the crown) = 34.5°
• Pavilion Depth (Depth of pavilion divided
by overall diameter) = 43.1%
• Crown Depth (Depth of crown divided by crown
diameter) = 16.2%
The culet is the tiny point at the
bottom of the diamond. This should be a negligible diameter,
otherwise light leaks out of the bottom. Tolkowsky's
ideal dimensions did not include a girdle. However,
a thin girdle is required in reality in order to prevent
the diamond from easily chipping in the setting. A normal
girdle should be about 1%–2% of the overall diameter.
The further the diamond's characteristics are from Tolkowsky's
ideal, the less light will be reflected. However, there
is a small range in which the diamond can be considered
"ideal." Today, because of the relative importance
of carat weight in society, many diamonds are often
intentionally cut poorly to increase carat weight. There
is a financial premium for a diamond that weighs the
magical 1.0 carat, so often the girdle is made thicker
or the depth is increased. Neither of the these tactics
make the diamond appear any bigger, but it also greatly
reduces the sparkle of the diamond. So a poorly cut
1.0 carat diamond may have the same diameter and appear
as large as a 0.85 carat diamond. The depth percentage
is the overall quickest indication of the quality of
the cut of a round brilliant. "Ideal" round
brilliant diamonds should not have a depth percentage
greater than 62.5%. Another quick indication is the
overall diameter. Typically a round brilliant 1.0 carat
diamond should have a diameter of about 6.5 mm. Mathematically,
the diameter in millimeters of a round brilliant should
approximately equal 6.5 times the cube root of carat
weight, or 11.1 times the cube root of gram weight. |
Shape

Item # p6289
|
Diamonds
do not show all of their beauty as rough stones; instead,
they must be cut and polished to exhibit the characteristic
fire and brilliance that diamond gemstones are known for.
Diamonds are cut into a variety of shapes that are generally
designed to accentuate these features.
Diamonds which are not cut to the specifications of Tolkowsky's
round brilliant shape (or subsequent variations) are known
as "fancy cuts." Popular fancy cuts include
the baguette(from
the French, resembling a loaf of bread), marquise,
princess (square outline), heart, briolette
(a form of the rose cut), and pear cuts.
Generally speaking, these "fancy cuts" are not
held to the same strict standards as Tolkowsky-derived
round brilliants and there are less specific mathematical
guidelines of angles which determine a well-cut stone.
Cuts are influenced heavily by fashion: the baguette cut—which
accentuates a diamond's luster and downplays its fire—was
all the rage during the Art Deco period, whereas the princess
cut—which accentuates a diamond's fire rather than
its luster—is currently gaining popularity. The
princess cut is also popular amongst diamond cutters:
of all the cuts, it wastes the least of the original crystal.
The past decades have seen the development of new diamond
cuts, often based on a modification of an existing cut.
Some of these include extra facets. These newly developed
cuts are viewed by many as more of an attempt at brand
differentiation by diamond sellers, than actual improvements
to the state of the art. |
Quality

Item # p6812 |
The
quality of a diamond's cut is widely considered the
most important of the four Cs in determining the beauty
of a diamond; indeed, it is commonly acknowledged that
a well-cut diamond can appear to be of greater carat
weight, and have clarity and color appear to be of better
grade than they actually are. The skill with which a
diamond is cut determines its ability to reflect and
refract light.
In addition to carrying the most importance to a diamond's
quality as a gemstone, the cut is also the most difficult
to quantitatively judge. A number of factors, including
proportion,symmetry, and the relative angles of various
facets, are determined by the quality of the cut and
can affect the performance of a diamond. A poorly cut
diamond with facets cut only a few degrees out of alignment
can result in a poorly performing stone. For a round
brilliant cut, there is a balance between "brilliance"
and "fire." When a diamond is cut for too
much "fire," it looks like a cubic
zirconia, which gives off much more "fire"
than real diamond. A well executed round brilliant cut
should reflect most light out from the tabletop and
make the diamond appear white when viewed from the top.
An inferior cut will produce a stone that appears dark
at the center and in some extreme cases the ring settings
may show through the top of the diamond as shadows.
Several different theories on the "ideal"
proportions of a diamond have been and continue to be
advocated by professional gemologists. Recently, there
has been a shift away from grading cut by the use of
various angles and proportions toward measuring the
performance of a cut stone. A number of specially modified
viewers and machines have been developed toward this
end. They included the FireScope, a.k.a. SymmetriScope
or IdealScope (tests for light leakage, light return
and proportions), Hearts and Arrows Viewer (test for
" heards and arrows" characteristic pattern
observable on stones exhibiting high symmetry), GemEx
BrillianceScope (tests for direct light performance
results of a diamond), Isee2 Machine (tests for diffused
light performance results of a diamond), and ASET (test
for AGS cut grade). These viewers and machines often
help consumers determine the light performance results
of the diamond in addition the traditional 4 C's. Along
with this shift there are a few companies that provide
results on these viewers and machines in addition to
the original 4c's. Solasfera Diamond has results of
Hearts and Arrows viewer, GemEx BrillianceScope, and
FireScope. Hearts on Fire Diamond has results of the
Hearts and Arrows viewer. EightStar Diamond has results
of the FireScope
The
cutting process
The process of shaping a rough
diamond into a polished gemstone is both an art and
a science. The choice of cut is often decided by the
original shape of the rough stone, location of the inclusions
and flaws to be eliminated, the preservation of the
weight, popularity of certain shapes amongst consumers
and many other considerations. The round brilliant cut
is preferred when the crystal is an octahedron, as often
two stones may be cut from one such crystal. Oddly shaped
crystals such as macles are more likely to be cut in
a fancy cut—that is, a cut other than the round
brilliant—which the particular crystal shape lends
itself to.
Even with modern techniques, the cutting and polishing
of a diamond crystal always results in a dramatic loss
of weight; rarely is it less than 50%. Sometimes the
cutters compromise and accept lesser proportions and
symmetry in order to avoid inclusions or to preserve
the carat rating. Since the per carat price of diamond
shifts around key milestones (such as 1.00 carat), many
one-carat diamonds are the result of compromising "Cut"
for "Carat." Some jewelry experts advise consumers
to buy a 0.99 carat diamond for its better price or
buy a 1.10 carat diamond for its better cut, avoiding
a 1.00 carat diamond which is more likely to be a poorly
cut stone. |
Cleaning

Item # 6407 |
Although
it is not one of the four Cs, cleanliness affects a diamond's
beauty as much as any of the four Cs. A clean diamond
is more brilliant and fiery than the same diamond when
it is "dirty." Dirt or grease on the top of
a diamond reduces its luster. Water, dirt, or grease on
the bottom of a diamond interferes with the diamond's
brilliance and fire. Even a thin film absorbs some light
that could have been reflected to the person looking at
the diamond. Colored dye or smudges can affect the perceived
color of a diamond. Historically, some jewelers' stones
were misgraded because of smudges on the girdle, or dye
on the culet. Current practice is to thoroughly clean
a diamond before grading its color.
Maintaining a clean diamond can sometimes be difficult,
as jewelry settings can obstruct cleaning efforts, and
oils, grease, and other hydrophobic materials adhere well
to a diamond's surface. Some jewelers provide their customers
with ammonia-based cleaning kits; ultrasonic cleaners
are also popular.
Cleanliness does not affect the diamond's market value,
as any competent jeweler will clean the diamond before
offering it for sale. However, cleanliness might reflect
a diamond's sentimental value: some jewelers have noted
a correlation between ring cleanliness and marriage quality
. |
History

Item # p6728 |
Diamonds
are thought to have been first recognized and mined
in India, where significant alluvial deposits of the
stone could then be found. The earliest written reference
can be found in the Sanskrit text Arthasastra, which
was completed around 296 BCE, describes diamond's hardness,
luster, and dispersion. Diamonds quickly became associated
with divinity, being used to decorate religious icons,
and were believed to bring good fortune to those who
carried them. Ownership was restricted among various
castes by color, with only kings being allowed to own
all colors of diamond.
In February 2005, a joint Chinese-U.S. team of archaeologists
reported the discovery of four corundum -rich stone
ceremonial burial axes originating from China's Liangzhu
and Sanxingcun cultures (4000 BCE–2500 BCE) which,
because of the axes' specular surfaces, the scientists
believe were polished using diamond powder . Although
there are diamond deposits now known to exist close
to the burial sites, no direct evidence of coeval diamond
mining has been found: the researchers came to this
conclusion by polishing corundum using various lapidary
abrasives and modern techniques then comparing the results
using an atomic force microscope. At that scale, the
surface of the modern diamond-polished corundum closely
resembled that of the axes; however, the polishes of
the latter were superior.
Diamonds were traded to both the east and west of India
and were recognized by various cultures for their gemological
or industrial uses. The Roman writer Pliny the Elder
noted diamond's ornamental uses, as well as its usefulness
to engravers because of its hardness, in his work Naturalis
Historia. In China, diamonds seem to have been used
primarily for engraving jade and drilling holes in beads.
Archeological evidence from Yemen suggests that diamonds
were used as drill tips as early as the 4th century
BCE. In Europe, however, diamonds disappeared for almost
1,000 years following the rise of Christianity because
of two effects: early Christians rejected diamonds because
of their earlier use in amulets, and Arabic traders
restricted the flow of trade between Europe and India.
|
|
Diagram
of old diamond cuts showing the evolution from the most
primitive (point cut) to the most advanced pre-Tolkowsky
cut (old European).
Until the late Middle Ages, diamonds
were most prized in their natural octahedral state,
perhaps with the crystal surfaces polished to increase
luster and remove foreign material. Around 1300, the
flow of diamonds into Europe increased via Venice’s
trade network, with most flowing through the low country
ports of Bruges, Antwerp, and Amsterdam. During this
time, the taboo against cutting diamonds into gem shapes,
which was established over 1,000 years earlier in the
traditions of India, ended allowing the development
of diamond cutting technology to begin in earnest. By
1375, a guild of diamond polishers had been established
at Nuremberg. Over the following centuries, various
diamond cuts were introduced which increasingly demonstrated
the fire and brilliance that makes diamonds treasured
today: the table cut, the briolette (around 1476), the
rose cut (mid-16th century), and by the mid-17th century,
the Mazarin, the first brilliant cut diamond design.
In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky developed an ideal round brilliant
cut design that has set the standard for comparison
of modern gems; however, diamond cuts have continued
to be refined.
The rise in popularity of diamonds as gems seems to
have paralleled increasing availability through European
history. In the 13th century, King Louis IX of France
established a law that only the king could own diamonds.
However, within a century diamonds were popular gems
among the moneyed aristocratic and merchant classes,
and by at latest 1477 had begun to be used in wedding
rings. Popularity continued to rise as new cuts were
developed that enhanced the diamond's aesthetic appeal,
and has largely continued unabated to this day; diamonds
have proven popular with all classes in society as their
cost has become within reach. A number of large diamonds
have become historically significant objects, as their
inclusion in various sets of crown jewels and the purchase,
sale, and sometimes theft of notable diamonds, have
sometimes become politicized.
Record-holding
diamonds
The Cullinan Diamond, owned by
Queen Elizabeth II was the largest gem-quality rough
diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 carats. One of
the diamonds cut from it, Cullinan I or the Great Star
of Africa, was formerly the largest cut diamond at 530.2
carats, but now that title has been taken by the Golden
Jubilee (1985), a 545.67 carat yellow-brown diamond.
The largest flawless and colorless (grade D) diamond
is the Centenary Diamond which weighs 273.85 carats.
The Millennium Star is the second largest (1990) at
203.04 carats.
|
List
of famous diamonds

Item # p6630 |
A number
of large or extraordinarily colored diamonds have gained
fame, both as exquisite examples of the beautiful nature
of diamonds, and because of the famous people who wore,
bought, and sold them. A partial list of famous diamonds
in history follows.
• The Allnatt Diamond
• The Centenary Diamond
• The Cullinan Diamond, the largest rough gem-quality
diamond ever found at 3106.75 carats
• The Deepdene
• The Dresden Green Diamond
• The Dudley Diamond
• The Eugenie Blue Diamond
• The Excelsior Diamond
• The Florentine Diamond
• The Golden Jubilee, the largest faceted diamond
ever cut at 545.67 carats
• The Great Chrysanthemum Diamond
• The Heart of Eternity Diamond, perhaps the
largest Fancy Vivid Blue
• The Hope Diamond, blue and supposedly cursed
• The Hortensia Diamond
• The Idol's Eye
• The Koh-i-Noor, very old (mentioned in Baburnama
of 1526) and surrounded by legend
• The Millennium Star, the largest colorless
(grade D), flawless diamond
• The Great Mogul Diamond
• The Moussaieff Red Diamond, the largest Fancy
Vivid Red
• The Ocean Dream Diamond, the only known natural
Fancy Deep Blue-Green
• The Oppenheimer Diamond
• The Orloff, an Indian rose cut rumored to
have served as the eye of a Hindu statue
• The Portuguese Diamond
• The Premier Rose Diamond
• The Pumpkin Diamond, perhaps the largest Fancy
Vivid Orange
• The Regent Diamond
• The Steinmetz Pink Diamond, the largest Fancy
Vivid Pink
• The Taylor-Burton Diamond
• The Tiffany Yellow Diamond
• The Sancy
• The Star of the South
• The Vargas
|
The
diamond industry

Item # 6820 |
| The diamond
industry can be broadly separated into two basically distinct
categories: one dealing with gem-grade diamonds and another
for industrial-grade diamonds. While a large trade in
both types of diamonds exists, the two markets act in
dramatically different ways. |
Gem
diamond industry

Item # 402 |
A large
trade in gem-grade diamonds exists. Unlike precious
metals such as gold
or platinum,
gem diamonds do not trade as a commodity: there is a substantial
mark-up in the sale of diamonds, and there is not a very
active market for resale of diamonds. One hallmark of
the trade in gem-quality diamonds is its remarkable concentration:
wholesale trade and diamond cutting is limited to a few
locations (most importantly New York, Antwerp, London,
Tel Aviv, Amsterdam and Surat), and a single company—De
Beers—controls over half of all trade in diamonds.
They are based in Johannesburg, South Africa and London,
England.
The production and distribution of diamonds is largely
consolidated in the hands of a few key players, and concentrated
in traditional diamond trading centers (the most important
being Antwerp). The De Beers company holds a clearly dominant
position in the industry, and has done so since soon after
its founding in 1888. De Beers owns or controls a significant
portion of the world's rough diamond production facilities
(mines) and distribution channels for gem-quality diamonds.
The company and its subsidiaries own mines that produce
some 40 percent of annual world diamond production, and
control distribution channels handling nearly two thirds
of all gem diamonds. At one time it was thought over 80
percent of the world's rough diamonds passed through the
Diamond Trading Company (DTC, a subsidiary of De Beers)
in London, but presently the figure is estimated at around
60 percent. De Beers has used its monopoly position to
establish strict price controls, and aggressively market
diamonds directly to consumers in world markets.
The De Beers diamond advertising campaign is acknowledged
as one of the most successful and innovative ones in history.
N.W. Ayer & Son, the advertising firm retained by
De Beers in the mid-20th century, succeeded in reviving
the American diamond market and opened up new markets,
even in countries where no diamond tradition had existed
before. N.W. Ayer's multifaceted marketing campaign included
product placement, advertising the diamond itself rather
than the De Beers brand, and building associations with
celebrities and royalty. This coordinated campaign has
lasted decades and continues today; it is perhaps best
captured by the now-familiar slogan "a diamond is
forever". |
Industrial
diamond industry

Item # BR67-12RD24 |
The market
for industrial-grade diamonds operates much differently
from its gem-grade counterpart. Industrial diamonds are
valued mostly for their hardness and heat conductivity,
making many of the gemological characteristics of diamond,
including clarity and color, mostly irrelevant. This helps
explain why 80% of mined diamonds (equal to about 100
million carats or 20,000 kg annually), unsuitable for
use as gemstones and known as bort, are destined for industrial
use. In addition to mined diamonds, synthetic diamonds
found industrial applications almost immediately after
their invention in the 1950s; another 400 million carats
(80,000 kg) of synthetic diamonds are produced annually
for industrial use—nearly four times the mass of
natural diamonds mined over the same period.
The dominant industrial use of diamond is in cutting,
drilling, grinding, and polishing. Most uses of diamonds
in these technologies do not require large diamonds; in
fact, most diamonds that are gem-quality except for their
small size, can find an industrial use. Diamonds are embedded
in drill tips or saw blades, or ground into a powder for
use in grinding and polishing applications. Specialized
applications include use in laboratories as containment
for high pressure experiments (see diamond anvil), high-performance
bearings, and limited use in specialized windows.
With the continuing advances being made in the production
of synthetic diamond, future applications are beginning
to become feasible. Garnering much excitement is the possible
use of diamond as a semiconductor suitable to build microchips
from, or the use of diamond as a heat sink in electronics.
Significant research efforts in Japan, Europe, and the
United States are under way to capitalize on the potential
offered by diamond's unique material properties, combined
with increased quality and quantity of supply starting
to become available from synthetic diamond manufacturers. |
Diamond
supply chain

Item # BR69-07 |
The
diamond supply chain is controlled by a limited number
of powerful businesses, and is also highly concentrated
in a small number of locations around the world. In
fact, the amount of power which De Beers has consolidated
historically prevented it from direct trade with the
United States, as its trade practices led to an indictment
for violating antitrust regulations (the case was settled
in 2004). The concentration of power only loosens at
the retail level, where diamonds are sold by a limited
number of distributors, known as sightholders, to jewelers
around the world.
Sources
Historically diamonds were known
to be found only in alluvial deposits in southern India;
India led the world in diamond production from the time
of their discovery in approximately the 9th century
BCE to the mid-18th century CE, but the commercial potential
of these sources has been exhausted. The first non-Indian
diamond source was found in Brazil in 1725. Today, most
commercially viable diamond deposits are in Africa,
notably in South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, the Rebuplic
of the Congo,Angola and Sierra Leone. There are also
commercial deposits being actively mined in the Northwest
Territories of Canada, Siberia (mostly in yakutia territory,
for example Mir pipe and Udachnaya pipe), Brazil, and
in Northern and Western Australia. Diamond prospectors
continue to search the globe for diamond-bearing kimberlite
and lamproite pipes.
In some of the more politically unstable central African
and west African countries, revolutionary groups have
taken control of diamond mines, using proceeds from
diamond sales to finance their operations. Diamonds
sold through this process are known as conflict diamonds
or blood diamonds. In response to public concerns that
their diamond purchases were contributing to war and
human rights abuses in central Africa and west Africa,
the diamond industry and diamond-trading nations introduced
the Kimberley Process in 2002, which is aimed at ensuring
that conflict diamonds do not become intermixed with
the diamonds not controlled by such rebel groups. The
Kimberley Process provides documentation and certification
of diamond exports from producing countries to ensure
that the proceeds of sale are not being used to fund
criminal or revolutionary activities. Although the Kimberly
Process has been somewhat successful in limiting the
number of conflict diamonds entering the market, conflict
diamonds smuggled to market continue to persist to some
degree.
Currently, gem production totals nearly 30 million carats
(6,000 kg) of cut and polished stones annually, and
over 100 million carats (20,000 kg) of diamonds are
sold for industrial use each year. In 2003, this constituted
total production of nearly US$9 billion in value.
Distribution
The Diamond Trading Company, or
DTC, is a subsidiary of De Beers and markets rough diamonds
produced both by De Beers mines and other mines from
which it purchases rough diamond production; in whole,
about two thirds of all rough diamonds pass through
the company. DTC performs sophisticated sorting of rough
diamonds into over 16,000 categories, and then sells
bulk lots of rough diamonds to a limited number of sightholders
a few times a year.
Once purchased by sightholders, diamonds are cut and
polished in preparation for sale as gemstones. The cutting
and polishing of rough diamonds is a specialized skill
that is concentrated in a limited number of locations
worldwide. Traditional diamond cutting centers are Antwerp,
Amsterdam, Johannesburg, New York, and Tel Aviv. Recently,
diamond cutting centers have been established in China,
India, and Thailand. Cutting centers with lower costs
of labor, notably Surat in Gujarat, India, handle a
larger number of smaller carat diamonds, while smaller
quantities of larger or more valuable diamonds are more
likely to be handled in Europe or North America. Demonstrating
this, India produces 90% of all cut and polished diamonds
by number, but only 55% by value. The recent expansion
of this industry in India, employing low cost labor,
has allowed smaller diamonds to be prepared as gems
than was previously economically feasible.
Diamonds which have been prepared as gemstones are sold
on diamond exchanges called bourses. There are 24 registered
diamond bourses. This is the final tightly controlled
step in the diamond supply chain; wholesalers and even
retailers are able to buy relatively small lots of diamonds
at the bourses, after which they are prepared for final
sale to the consumer. Diamonds can be sold already set
in jewelry, or as is increasingly popular, sold unset
("loose"). According to the Rio Tinto Group,
in 2002 the diamonds produced and released to the market
were valued at US$9 billion as rough diamonds, US$14
billion after being cut and polished, US$28 billion
in wholesale diamond jewelry, and retail sales of US$57
billion. |
Synthetics,
simulants, and enhancements

Item # 497 |
The gemological
and industrial uses of diamond have created a large demand
for raw stones. A portion of this demand is now being
met by synthetic
diamonds,
man-made diamonds which have similar properties to natural
diamonds. This process has historically produced industrial-grade
diamonds, but synthetic diamond producers have recently
begun to penetrate the gem diamond market. Diamonds have
been manufactured synthetically for over fifty years.
A diamond's gem quality, which is not as dependent on
material properties as industrial applications, has invited
both imitation and the invention of procedures to enhance
the gemological properties of natural diamonds. Materials
which have similar gemological characteristics to diamond
but are not real mined or synthetic diamond are known
as diamond simulants. The most familiar diamond simulant
to most consumers is cubic
zirconia (commonly abbreviated as CZ);
recently moissanite
has also gained cachet as a popular diamond simulant.
Both CZ and moissanite are synthetically produced for
use as a diamond simulant. Diamond enhancements are specific
treatments, performed on natural diamonds (usually those
already cut and polished into a gem), which are designed
to better the gemological characteristics of the stone
in one or more ways. These include laser drilling to remove
inclusions, application of sealants to fill cracks, treatments
to improve a white diamond's color grade, and treatments
to give fancy color to a white diamond.
Currently, trained gemologists with appropriate equipment
are able to distinguish natural diamonds from all synthetic
and simulant diamonds, and identify all enhanced natural
diamonds. The established natural diamond industry has
a vested interest in maintaining the distinction between
natural diamonds and other diamonds, and has made significant
investments toward that end. However, synthetic diamonds
may one day be indistinguishable from natural diamonds,
and new techniques for simulants (such as coating them
with a very thin diamond-like layer of carbon) are making
it harder to easily distinguish between simulants and
real diamonds. |
Symbolism

Item # 477 |
Because
of their extraordinary physical properties, diamonds have
been used symbolically since near the time of their first
discovery. Perhaps the earliest symbolic use of diamonds
was as the eyes of Hindu devotional statues. The diamonds
themselves were thought to be endowments from the gods
and were therefore cherished. The point at which diamonds
began to be associated with divinity is not known, but
early texts indicate that it was recognized in India since
at least 400 BCE. It is said the Greeks believed diamonds
were tears of the gods; the Romans believed they were
splinters of fallen stars. Many long dead cultures have
sought to explain diamond's superlative properties through
divine or mystical affiliations.
In Tibetan Buddhism, also known as Vajrayana (Diamond
Vehicle), diamonds are an important symbol, and the Diamond
Sutra is one of the most popular texts.
In Western culture, diamonds are the traditional emblem
of fearlessness and virtue, but have also often associated
with power, wealth, crime and misfortune. Today, diamonds
are used to symbolize eternity and love, being often seen
adorning engagement rings and sometimes wedding rings
as well. The popularity of this modern tradition can be
traced directly to the marketing campaigns of De Beers,
starting in 1938. Prior to the De Beers marketing campaign,
engagement rings had no one particular stone associated
with them. The first diamond engagement ring can be traced
to the marriage of MaximillianI
(then Archduke of Austria) to Mary of Burgundy in 1477.
Other early examples of betrothal jewels incorporating
diamonds include the Bridal Crown of Blanche (ca. 1370–80)
and the Heftlein brooch of Vienna (ca. 1430–40),
a pictorial piece depicting a wedding couple. Inaccessibility
of diamonds to the vast majority of the population limited
the popularity of diamonds as betrothal jewels during
this period.
Diamonds were also a symbol of gay community in the 1950s.
The Mattachine Society, one of the first and the foremost
gay rights groups in the United States, used so-called
harlequin diamonds (four smaller diamonds arranged in
a pattern to form one larger diamond) as their emblem.
The LifeGem company further taps modern symbolism by offering
to synthetically convert the carbonized remains of people
or pets into "memorial diamonds." However, many
people feel very uncomfortable at the thought of wearing
the carbonized remains of people as jewelry.
The diamond is the birthstone for people born in the month
of April, and is also used as the symbol of a sixty-year
anniversary, such as a Diamond Jubilee (see hierarchy
of precious substances).
Diamonds are a common focus of fiction. Notable pieces
of fiction include Ian Fleming 's Diamonds Are Forever
(1956), Arthur C. Clarke's 2061: Odyssey Three (1988)
and Neal Stephenson's The Diamond Age (1995). In addition,
diamonds are the subject of various myths and legends.
Contents
1 Material properties
1.1 Mechanical properties
1.1.1. Crystal structure
1.1.2. Hardness
1.1.3. Toughness
1.1.4. Color
1.1.5. Thermodynamic stability
1.2 Electromagnetic properties
1.2.1 Optical properties
1.2.2 Electrical properties
1.2.3 Thermal properties
1.3 Media
2 Natural history
2.1 Formation
2.2 Surfacing
3 Gemological characteristics
3.1 Carat
3.2 Clarity
3.3 Color
3.4 Cut
3.4.1 Shape
3.4.2 Quality
3.4.3 The cutting process
3.5 Cleaning
4 History
4.1 Record-holding diamonds
4.2 List of famous diamonds
5 The diamond industry
5.1 Gem diamond industry
5.2 Industrial diamond industry
5.3 Diamond supply chain
5.3.1 Sources
5.3.2 Distribution
5.4 Synthetics, simulants and enhancement
6 Symbolism Diamond
Color Grades Help you Choose a Diamond that Suits Your
Budget
Four major components are considered
when determining a diamond's quality and value. They
are known as the Four C's: color, clarity, cut, and
carat weight. Understanding these four diamond characteristics
and how they interact can help you select a diamond
that suits your tastes and your pocketbook.
Judging
Diamond Color
Diamonds are not all truly colorless,
but it's the colorless, often called white, which are
diamonds that other shades are judged against.
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has devised
a set of guidelines to grade diamond color. The color
of graded diamonds is compared to the color of control
stones, reselected gems of a specific color.
Diamond
Color Grades
Colorless diamonds and diamonds
that are yellow or yellowish brown are grouped into
the categories shown below. These grades do not apply
to fancy colored diamonds--they have their own color
grading standards.
D-E-F
Colorless.
G-H-I-J
Nearly colorless.
K-L-M
Faintly tinted, usually yellow.
N-O-P-Q-R
Lightly tinted, usually yellow. Tint can be seen with
the naked eye.
S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z
Tinted, usually yellow, may progress to brownish. Tint
visible to the naked eye, even when mounted.
|
VALUING
DIAMONDS
The quality and
value of diamonds are measured by four characteristics
known as the 4C's. The 4C's relate to a diamond's
cut, colour, clarity and carat weight. The quality
of a diamond is measured by its cut, colour and clarity.
The carat weight measures the size of the diamond.
Of all the 4C's, cut is the characteristic directly
influenced by man; colour, clarity and carat weight
are all dictated by nature.
Cut

A diamond in its
natural, uncut state is described as a "rough
diamond". Its natural appearance so resembles
a glass pebble that most people would pass it by without
a second glance. It is the skill of the diamond cutter
that unlocks the brilliance for which diamonds are
renowned.
If two identical
diamonds are placed side by side and one is less brilliant
and fiery than the other, the fault lies in the cutting.
Such a stone cannot demand as high a price as a well-cut
diamond.
It is important to
distinguish between cut and shape. Some of the more
popular shapes of diamonds include Round Brilliant,
Oval, Marquise, Pear, Heart and Emerald. Within each
of these shapes, however, it is the cut that determines
the quality of the stone. For example, most diamonds
are cut with 58 facets, regardless of their shape.
Colour

A diamond's colour
is one of the most important factors in determining
its value. The nearer a white diamond is to being
absolutely colourless, the more rare and valuable
it is. The graduations in colour are so subtle that
intricate international grading scales have been devised.
Diamonds are graded into categories defined by letters.
The colour range from exceptional whites (categories
D, E and F) to tinted colours (categories M to Z).
The best way to pinpoint a diamond's true colour is
to place it next to another diamond that has previously
been graded.
There are also fancy coloured diamonds and these are
graded according to their intensity of colour, not
lack of it. There are a variety of reasons for diamonds
to be coloured. The most common causes, or suggested
causes, for the colours yellow, green, blue, brown
and pink are described below.
Yellow:
When nitrogen combines
with the diamond crystals during the formation stage
it causes a surplus electron in the bonding. This
surplus electron absorbs blue light, thus giving off
a yellow colour. Yellow diamonds also occur when aggregates
of three nitrogens combine and cause surplus bond.
The elements of
boron may also be substituted within a diamond during
its formation. Boron absorbs red light, hence in the
absence of nitrogen, diamonds containing boron are
blue in colour. An example of a diamond containing
boron is the famous Blue Hope diamond. Diamonds containing
boron also exhibit unusual electrical properties and
are semi-conductive in nature. Hydrogen is another
impurity that, in high quantities, can cause grey
or blue colouring in diamonds. However, these diamonds
are not semi-conducting.
A vacancy in the
regular lattice of atoms within a diamond results
in a green colouring. Carbon atoms being knocked out
of their regular position by other particles cause
vacancies. The depth of colour usually extends about
2mm below the diamond's surface. At extremely high
temperatures the vacancies can become mobile and can
combine with nitrogen to form other colours such as
mauve, orange, blue or gold.
It has been suggested
that dislocations in the regular lattice of atoms,
caused by severe forces deep in the earth, may be
responsible for the brown colouring of champagne and
cognac diamonds. The dislocated bonds may affect the
light wavelength, thus producing a diamond which is
coloured, but which contains no impurities.
It has also been
suggested that combinations of dislocations, vacancies,
and non-nitrogen impurities cause the much sought-after
colouration in pink diamonds. However these theories
are still being developed.
Clarity
During the formation
of a diamond it is possible for minute particles of
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